Fr. Bob leads a Pilgrimage through France - July 3rd - 14th, 2005

I had so looked forward to returning to France, especially Lisieux and Lourdes. When I was there in 2002, I had been deeply touched, but also, because I was heavily medicated due to my developing spinal problems, I missed much.

So I was excited. The intense schedule of June, retreats, our Carmelite Chapter and regular work did not allow me time to properly prepare. Then I realized how few of the pilgrims I knew. Reaching out to St. Thérèse in my powerless panic, she simply whispered: - everything will be okay!- She always has that message of trust.

While it was a smooth flight to Paris, panic started. We could not find 9 pilgrims who had arrived on other flights - we had been delayed. There was no way to reach them. Finally the guide said we had to leave or we would miss the plane from the other airport to Lourdes. With a concerned heart, we left - only to get caught in major traffic jam - and arriving at Orly airport too late. My heart sank. What were we getting into?

Magda, our escort, jumped into action - and eventually got on the delayed plane to Lourdes - and we found 3 of the missing 9. I started to breathe! At the wonderful hotel in Lourdes, we met the other 6 - we were complete and could begin our pilgrimage. Yes, I could breathe! We met our guide Carlos, who would become one of the great blessings of this pilgrimage experience.

We began with Mass at St. Gabriel Chapel in the Basilica, celebrating "living water" - renewal of faith and hope. Gabriel is the "voice and power of God" - God was going to speak and work in us! After dinner, we returned to the Lourdes grounds for the candlelight procession. There is such a presence of hope and healing.

The next day, the sun was shining. We passed the Little Flower Café as we walked into the Grotto. The story of Bernadette and the apparitions - her simple faith and humility. There is a peaceful serenity that touches the soul - the gentle face of Mary and the profound faith of Bernadette! It is about living water from that spring which speaks of God’s living love refreshing our souls. We celebrated a healing service before we went into the healing baths. The candlelight processions, the thousands of wheelchair pilgrims, the thousands more attending to them, the baths and the prayerful, respectful way the attendants submerged and prayed with us was beyond words. It stirs something deep within - I wasn’t the only one with tears flowing many times. Mary works in very tender ways to remind us of the tender mercy of God.

We visited Bernadette’s birthplace and home - the poor house where her family lived during the apparitions. The procession of the sick at 5 PM moved us to tears - and as they all gathered in and filled the 25,000 seat lower basilica of Pius X. There are not words to explain. The evening candlelight procession was just awesome, even though the darkness did not descend until after 10 PM. The brilliant, colorful sunset reminded us that Mary was smiling on us. Amid the sickness and hurts, Lourdes exudes a profound sense of healing and hope. There is something so simple and genuine. Its credibility is heightened by the fact that Bernadette walked away when the apparitions were over and lived a quiet religious life of service to the sick and poor. Her ego seemed overwhelmed by the miraculous interaction with Mary, the Immaculate Conception. Unlike some other seers, she did not hang around or bask in the publicity, nor use it as a platform for religious politics nor political views. The hiddenness of it all heightens the credibility and the message. Mary reminds us that we are all children of grace!

Then we flew back to Paris, to begin the journey to Lisieux and Normandy. By now we knew our guide Carlos was a special man of faith - his love of Mary came through. He was the first guide in 30 trips who celebrated Mass and received Communion with us each day. He was very much a part of our prayer experience in his explanations and personal presence. Driving to Lisieux, I gave a teaching on the life and spirituality of St. Thérèse - most knew it, because they were already friends of the Little Flower.

Once we settled into our hotel at Lisieux, we went to the Carmelite Convent. We began at the door where young Thérèse entered the Carmel, where her Dad fell on his knees to bless his beloved "little Queen" for the last time. Tears flowed as we read from her autobiography. She was here with us. I later fell to my knees at that sacred spot, profoundly moved by her and her father. The presence was awesome! Then we shared evening prayer with the Carmelite Nuns. Afterwards, there was a quiet and deep silence which overwhelmed us - it was still and pregnant with "presence". Even the Carmelite sacristan commented that they must be Carmelites because the silence was so engaging and profound - not the restless jitters and noises of people uncomfortable with God and silence. God was stirring in our souls through Thérèse.

Then we celebrated Eucharist in the Carmel Chapel, reflecting her little way of spiritual childhood. We could look and see her seat in the chapel, simply marked. The "presence" was overwhelming - again tears flowed and I was embarrassed. As the group later looked into the Nuns’ chapel and saw the marked pew where our friend prayed, I heard her whisper, "thank you for bringing my friends here."

The next day was another rich day of pilgrimage. We visited the large Basilica up the hill, with so many memorabilia of St. Thérèse. We celebrated Eucharist in the crypt church with its awesome mosaics. Quiet time allowed us to explore and pray. Then to Les Buissonnets, her home for 10 years - so many memories and feelings moved us as we toured the house - the fireplace where her Christmas conversion took place, her bedroom and the place of her healing by Our Lady of the Smile, childhood dresses, toys and memorabilia - the garden behind where she asked her Dad’s permission to enter the Carmel. Wow! She seemed so real and human! Then to the Cathedral of St. Pierre where they went to Church, received the sacraments and where she prayed to draw closer to Jesus that Christmas Eve. We saw the pharmacy of her uncle where she often went - and the post office she visited for three months every day waiting for the letter from the Bishop that she could enter the Carmel early. We could just feel the presence of this strong, tenacious young girl and her passionate following of God’s call. Many of her longtime pilgrim friends explained that now she felt so much more human and alive. After lunch and shopping, many revisited the Carmel to spend quiet time listening to St. Thérèse - this quiet place where her hidden, simple life gave credibility to God’s great dreams in her. Returning to our hotel, we learned of the bombings in London.

Leaving Lisieux was tough - just not enough time - but I knew there was more of her. We drove north into Normandy - past Bayeux, where young Thérèse visited the Bishop to attempt to gain early entrance to Carmel - stopped at Ste Mère Eglise, where our paratroopers landed - so many drown - and one was hanging from the Church roof. Then to Utah Beach and Omaha Beach, where so many were slaughtered in the Normandy invasion. The echoes of sacrifice are there. Then to the American cemetery - the rows and rows of Crosses and Stars of David give silent tribute to these young martyrs of freedom. One pilgrim visited the grave of her uncle, the first relative to ever be able to visit his grave. Tears flowed as she cell-phoned her family from the gravesite. We all felt very patriotic and proud as we celebrated Mass there, singing "God bless America."

Then we drove to Pontorson, and saw our first glimpse of Mont St. Michel from a distance. Our quaint hotel was truly historic and delightful. The next day we slowly climbed the mountain to the 11th century monastery and church at the top - Archangel Michael’s wings lifted us. Then we drove to St. Malo along the scenic Normandy coast - the azure blue water and colorful landscape was beautiful.

It was a quiet Sunday morning as we drove to Alençon, where Thérèse was born and lived until her Mom died. We visited her house, with its rich display of memorabilia - the stairs where her Mom explained that young St. Thérèse stopped on each step and called "Mama" and would not move until her mother acknowledged her - it happened on each step all the way up. We could just imagine this little girl crying for attention and love. We celebrated Eucharist in the chapel next to the bed where she was born and where her Mom died. Two blocks away we visited Notre Dame Church where she was baptized, and then the place where her Dad’s jewelry shop was and the bridge where Louis and Zelie first met. In the garden behind the childhood house, we sat on the bench where young Thérèse and her sister Celine used to share secrets each day - we had three groups of blood sisters on the pilgrimage and they had special moments sitting there together.

On the way we stopped at Chartres Cathedral, with its incredible blue windows, stone masonry and awesome history.

Some walked the famous labyrinth. Chartres Cathedral is breath-taking - we had already had so many breath-taking moments.

Eventually we came to Paris with all its magic and history and great food. We toured the Louvre, Versailles Palace and Sacre Coeur and so many other important historic places. One morning we went to Rue du Bac to reflect on St. Vincent DePaul, St. Catherine Labouré and the Miraculous Medal apparitions. Again that powerful presence of Mary to a simple girl, who remained hidden - who had put her hands on Mary’s lap. Catherine did not reveal that she was the one blessed with the apparitions for 46 years, even as she had her confessor execute the Medal as requested. Humility before God’s miraculous gifts is the sign of authenticity and deep Christian faith.

There were so many graced and powerful moments on this pilgrimage. The pilgrim group embraced each other and the sacred sites with an open and embracing faith. This makes all the difference. The overarching theme of the pilgrimage was the voice from heaven, speaking to simple women, of God’s tenderness, healing and compassion. At a time of Jansenism, when the Church seemed to believe more in the sternness, justice and frowning judgment of a distant God, and the guilty sinfulness of humanity, His Mother showed up to speak the Gospel truths of revelation: that we have a God of tender mercy. If the Church focused on unhealthy images of God as a stern father and punitive judge to keep people in line, Mary showed the maternal face of God who is tender, forgiving, understanding and compassionate. Catherine Labouré touched her lap, Bernadette heard her plea for the living waters of mercy and that we are all children of grace, not sired in sin, and Thérèse was healed and transformed by her to see that the mercy of God is everywhere and unconditional, and that "everything is grace."

This France pilgrimage of grace overwhelmed us with the message of how graced we are by the tender mercy and warm compassion of our God who pilgrimages our life with us. While St. Thérèse was the highlight for me, the whole experience of the people, pilgrims and places was truly a gift of grace. All we had to do was listen and respond with open hearts. St. Thérèse was right "everything will be okay" - It was more than we imagined. Grace is overwhelming! I’ll do this pilgrimage journey again!

Fr. Bob Colaresi, O. Carm.

If you would like to see additional photos of our pilgrimage through France, click here.